Celli Ripieni

makes about 36
(the name of this traditional cookie means “stuffed birds”)

For the cookies
4¼ cups plus 1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
½ cup white wine
¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. olive oil
2 medium eggs
¾ cup plus 3 Tbsp. sugar
Zest of one lemon
1 packet levito di dolci (a sweet Italian leavening agent, and the secret to amazing pastries)

For the filling
1 cup grape jam, preferably homemade
¼ cup dark chocolate, chopped
1 Tbsp. cocoa powder
Zest of one orange
Pinch of cinnamon
½ tsp. rum or other liquor
Raw or powdered sugar, for finishing

Mix the dough ingredients together, adding oil or wine as needed to bring dough together. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for several hours.

In a bowl, combine filling ingredients and set aside.

Preheat oven to 350°. Roll out and cut into circles of desired size. (I used a 2¾-inch biscuit cutter.) Place a dollop of filling on one half of each circle, then fold into a semi-circle, like a ravioli, and pinch to seal. Bring the two corners together, like a tortellini, and pinch to seal. Dust with sugar. Bake for 15–18 minutes, until edges are lightly browned. (I dusted them with powdered sugar just before serving.)

While in Abruzzo, I met three siblings who were my second cousins, including Violeta Giuliani. She shared a recipe from Sapori d’Abruzzo, a Facebook group run by Marydig Basile, which I adapted by adding quantities when none were indicated.

Note: Here’s Annette’s recipe for homemade concord grape jam.