Hooray! We’re getting together again. Thielen’s book would be relevant at any moment, but it’s especially well timed as we’re all craving companionship after two essentially lost years.

I love the subtitle—“The radically casual art of cooking for others”—because it emphasizes two points: First, feeding company in an artful way doesn’t have to be fussy and formal. And second, it’s an act of generosity.

Part of the terror of hosting comes from assembling cohesive menus, and Thielen relieves this stress by providing menus and recipes for different occasions and gathering sizes. Chapter 1 is devoted to weekend meals for six to eight—say, a supper club or DIY Chinese takeout night. Subsequent chapters shift into holiday entertaining for eight to 12 guests, any-occasion parties for six to 10, on up to open house-style gatherings of 20 or so.

While unfussy, the recipes are not at all simplistic. Nor are they all quick and easy; some effort is required. And if you aspire to completely overhaul your Thanksgiving or Christmas spread, you’ll find the inspiration here. This is entertaining at its fresh, modern best. — Bryn Mooth