Urban Stead artisanal cheesemaker and cofounder Andrea Robbins likens the needs of a young wheel of clothbound cheddar to that of an infant: Hands carefully “coach batches of cheese along, flipping wheels multiple times” in the early weeks. “And just like babies, each batch needs different things.” Consistency, care, and careful observation—all play a part in the art of aging a wheel.

This labor-intensive, “slow food” cheesemaking practice has fed, nourished, and sustained Scott and Andrea Robbins, but it’s not been without its share of challenges. Urban Stead’s 2020 projections for growth were completely redefined by the pandemic’s impact. And although the business weathered the turbulent times, the Robbins have been personally and professionally stretched and tested—leaving them with new perspective as the sole surviving cheesemaker in the region.

Now, five years since opening their doors in Evanston, in a post-pandemic climate—and with multiple national cheese awards under their belt—the Urban Stead founders are as hands-in-it as ever. The Robbins continue to run a lean operation with a small, nimble team. Four days of every week (year-round) are devoted to making award-winning products, which leaves head cheesemaker Scott logging long hours at the vat and Andrea running all things retail. This pace isn’t easy, but it’s intentional, meaningful, and it’s not forever.

As Urban Stead enters a new era of success in challenging times for food-related businesses, Andrea reminds me there’s “no replacement for a founder.” Relentless passion. Unwavering dedication. We’d have to agree. When it comes to the demands of artisanal cheesemaking, there are no better hands to care for and tend to an aging wheel.

Urban Stead Cheese
3036 Woodburn Ave., Cincinnati
513.828.0830
Fri 3pm–9pm, Sat 2pm–9pm