Two soups in one. Eat this as a rich, brothy soup or as a smooth and creamy purée.

makes about 8 cups

2 heads cauliflower, separated into florets
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 onion, chopped
1 Tbsp. olive oil
4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
1 bay leaf
1 tsp. dried thyme
Salt and pepper to taste
For a cream soup add: 1 cup heavy cream

Preheat the oven to 425°. In a large bowl, toss cauliflower pieces with olive oil, garlic, and onion. Spread out in a roasting pan or rimmed baking sheet. Roast until toasted and tender, about 30 minutes.

When the cauliflower mixture is done, transfer to a soup pot and add the broth and water. Season with thyme and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat slightly and cook over medium heat for 30 minutes. Remove and discard the bay leaf. Serve as is, with chunky cauliflower in a savory broth, or make the cream variation: Purée the soup in the pot using an immersion blender, or transfer to a blender and carefully purée in batches, then return to the pot. Stir in the cream and season with salt and pepper. Heat through before serving but do not boil.