The process is a 5–6 hour labor of love; a trusted KichenAid mixer makes things a little easier but isn’t necessary.

makes about 24

2 cups milk
1 Tbsp. olive oil
2 Tbsp. sugar
21/2 tsp. salt
1 package yeast
1/2 cup lukewarm water
6–7 cups sifted bread flour

Warm milk over low heat. Add oil, sugar, and salt; stir until dissolved, then let cool.

In the bowl of a stand mixer (or in a large bowl), dissolve yeast in warm water. Add milk mixture and 3 cups bread flour. Knead to combine ingredients. Add remaining flour a little at a time until a dough ball forms and the sides of the mixing bowl are clean (if kneading by hand, the dough should feel alive).

Shape the dough into a ball. Swirl a small amount of olive oil in a clean bowl, then roll the dough around the bowl to coat the entire shape. Cover and allow to rise in a warm place until doubled (1–11/2 hours). After the first rising, punch down the dough; reshape and cover again. Allow to rise a second time until doubled again. Punch down a second time, cover, and let rest 15 minutes. Preheat oven to 400°.

Grease a 9x13-inch baking pan with olive oil. Pinch off an egg-sized amount of dough and work into a smooth ball. Apply oil to dough balls as you place them in lines in the pan. Repeat to make about 24 biscuits. Cover and let rise a third time until doubled. Place in oven and bake 25–30 minutes, until tops are golden brown. Remove from oven and cool briefly before brushing tops with butter. Serve warm.